dandyism and performative allyship
my thoughts on this years met gala (around three weeks too late)
The Met Gala has got to be one of my favourite times of the year. It’s like second Christmas for the fashion obsessed amongst us, such a myself. Even then, regardless of whether you care about clothing or not, it often feels like everybody is awaiting those first few images to show up on fashion news outlets. Sequestered at home in our pyjamas, watching the live stream with a critical eye, ready to give our opinions on what each celebrity’s stylist decided to dress them in.
Everyone’s most definitely already given their two pence on the Met Gala and the looks worn this year around fifty times over by now. But, I have grown up with an over-inflated sense of self importance that only being my parents’ eldest child can provide so I’m going to force you to read my thoughts anyway.
And I certainly have thoughts, not just on the many amazing looks and the equal amount of disappointing ones, but also about the discourse I have seen about the event itself and what it represents in our current world and its sociopolitical atmosphere. The Met Gala is often seen as a ridiculous, almost dystopian display of the wealth gap within the western world, particularly on the internet. Many people online often compare it to something from the Capitol in Suzanne Collins’ novel ‘The Hunger Games’. On that point, I do find myself agreeing, as well as the critcisms towards this year’s theme and its performative version of allyship, which has even been accused of being fetishistic in its treatment of African American culture and fashion history. I do think that, despite the good work this years theme has done at highlighting black culture and fashion, as well as uplifting black celebrities and pushing them to the forefront this year, it feels as though this theme has still been excluding of the everyday people who make the history of these fashion subcultures what they are and granted access to only a certain few who have ‘made it’ so to speak.
On a similar note, I do not necessarily believe myself the most qualified to go in depth about the politics of this. After all, I am simply a girl who loves clothes writing about her favourite looks of the event, not to mention my whiteness does not grant me the right to speak on this for it is simply not my place to approve or disapprove. It is a complicated matter, that’s for sure.
Yet, I am still a big believer in maintaining the arts and upholding fashion as an art like it deserves to be. That being fashion from all areas and walks of life, rather than just those that fit eurocentric standards. Therefore, I still think that the Met Gala is an important event in terms of artistry, and its opulence and expensive nature correlates with what it takes to maintain the garments shown on the exhibit and keeping these pieces in the public eye. So, without further ado, here’s a list of some of my favourite and least favourite looks of the Gala.
Hall of Fame (my three faves)
1. Doja Cat
When I saw this look, I audibly gasped because of how much I absolutely adored it. It’s giving Tina Turner meets Grace Jones in the best way possible. I know a lot of people did not like this look, but I simply cannot agree with them when it is a very beautiful and almost defiant piece. Unpopular opinion, I know, but the tailoring aspects were there, as well as a nod to 1980s black fashion that guaranteed this as one of my favourite looks of the night.
2. Doechii
Doechii certainly did not disappoint with her first Met Gala appearance. The theme of black dandyism was spot on in her look, as well as the references to logomania with the iconic Louis Vuitton monogram and checker board print on the suit. One of the better looks that Louis Vuitton gave us this year, for sure. It fits the dandy look while giving itself a modern, hip-hop style that Doechii is renowned for at this point.
3. Jenna Ortega
Now this was a beautiful and insanely creative approach to this year’s theme. I will admit, at first glance, I was not impressed until I took time to inspect it further. While Ortega did not wear a suit, the dress made out of tailoring rulers was gorgeous and a refreshingly inventive take on an otherwise very straight forward theme.
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Honourable Mentions: Bad Bunny, Jodie Turner-Smith, Janelle Monae, Lewis Hamilton, Jennie, Colman Domingo, Nicki Minaj, Lauryn Hill, Teyana Taylor, Zendaya, Laura Harrier, Damson Idris, Jeremy O’Harris.
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Hall of Shame (my three least faves)
1. Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber, Sofia Richie Grainge
I included this trio as one entry onto my ‘chop’ list because, when I say that I am tired of these three and their style in particular, I mean it. The worst crime you can commit at a fashion event such as this is being boring, and the Clean Girl Trinity certainly achieved that. I find each outfit incredibly dull. Bieber’s dress looks like I could’ve found it in H&M last year, Jenner reused a dress that she wore to a random dinner, and Richie Grainge looks as neutral and boring as she always does. These are the so called ‘style icons’ of our generation? I think not.
2. Anne Hathaway
Anne, my darling, I love you but what on earth was this? Also when she said that the inspiration was Andre Leon Talley, all I could think was '‘girl, where?’. Safe to say, Carolina Herrera did her insanely dirty. It is once again not a bad look but simply boring, uninspired, and really not on theme at all. (Plus I could’ve sworn I’ve seen her wear this look before).
3. Jeremy Allen White
Jeremy, Jeremy, Jeremy…you are the man of my dreams, I’ll give you that. But, showing up to the Met Gala in a plain black suit is a cardinal sin and everyone has known it for years now. Please up your game even a little bit. I cannot bear to see another man attending the Met Gala in a boring tux or dinner jacket and simply calling it a day.
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Dishonourable Mentions: Tom Ford, Sydney Sweeney, Kylie Jenner, Suki Waterhouse, Callum Turner, Dua Lipa, Rosalia, Anna Wintour, Emma Chamberlain, Adrien Brody, Every Male Celeb that just showed up in a plain black suit and called it a day.
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So, there is my roundup of my favourite and least favourite looks of this years Met Gala. I am excited to see what next year’s theme will be and if we will ever get another year like Heavenly Bodies where the majority of attendees get the theme right. Yet, in our ever changing world, I am curious to see where the Met Gala will find itself and if it will ever adapt to the changing times and shed some of its elitism. I will open up the comments to all subscribers on this article so feel free to let me know your favourite and least favourite looks this year, as well as any other thoughts or opinions you may have on the Met Gala.
Until next time, adieu.
Omg I never saw doja’s fit for the met gala this year, I wonder why. But I’m glad I read your stack (I don’t know how it’s called on this app?). I’m stunned doja looks gorg. Also you have great taste, but I read somewhere that this year especially white ppl tried to dress more “casual” or at least they tried to not “stand out” so black ppl could be the star of the show. I don’t know if that’s true but it kinda makes sense. What do you think?